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How Costume Designer Heidi Bivens Captured Gen-Z, Cool-Teen Style in ‘Euphoria’


Since the best of its launching period in June, “Euphoria,” produced by Sam Levinson (of “Assassination Nation”), has actually been getting its reasonable share of appreciation as well as objection– what with its heavily-on-display substance abuse (generally from the 17-year-old addict Rue, played by Zendaya), sex, pornography as well as physical violence. But what customers can probably settle on is how clued in as well as fashion-forward each personality’s closet is. Every unique appearance makes up a great equilibrium in between personalized items, vintage as well as indie tags, which costume designer Heidi Bivens really hopes not just lines up with how Gen Z presently gowns, yet additionally motivates a brand-new feeling of style for today’s Cool Teens ™.

“There is a discussion that can be begun concerning developing a risk-free atmosphere for youngsters to be able to share themselves with the means they clothe, as well as the means they look,” statesBivens “And with any luck this program will certainly [encourage them to do so].”.

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While Bivens had the ability to forge ahead cosmetically for “Euphoria,” she still needed to base her styles on actual teenagerdom. As an outcome, she did on-the-ground study: “I was taking a look at actual teenagers,” she states. “I would certainly most likely to senior high schools– not to be a creep– yet I’d rest outdoors as well as see teenagers when they would certainly leave college, simply to see what was actually happening with how they clothe, how they have accessibility to garments as well as where they go shopping.”.

With fond memories as well as originality at the origin of the majority of Gen- Z closets, classic items comprised most of the women’ outfits. Though, Bivens saw to it that the things had a classic high quality to them. “In making use of vintage that does not always resemble vintage, like maybe from today, that aided with the total appearance of the program to make it really feel initial,” she describes. Instagram was a substantial recommendation, also, as Bivens had the ability to deep-dive right into people’ various individual designs from throughout the globe, in addition to accessibility a multitude of indie developers.

Sophia-Rose Wilson, Sydney Sweeney, Barbie Ferreira and Alexa Demie in "Euphoria." Photo: Courtesy of HBO

Sophia-Rose Wilson, Sydney Sweeney, Barbie Ferreira as well as Alexa Demie in “Euphoria” Photo: Courtesy of HBO

” I had the ability to discover a great deal of amazing, brand-new things that isn’t always something I can simply enter into a shop as well as get, or go on the internet as well as get. And that was amazing to me to be able to offer a system for young developers,” she states. Bivens would certainly connect to these brand-new tags– based from South Korea to Italy– using DM, giving lead star Zendaya’s name as well as accessory to the program to ignite their passion. “While social media sites is commonly demonized nowadays, I will certainly claim that I had a great deal of favorable experience artistically with social media sites as well as Instagram on this specific program, largely due to the fact that it’s such a vital part of teens’ lives today.” she includes.

The brand-new HBO collection occurs to be the very first tv job for Bivens, whose previous job consists of movies “The Beach Bum,” “Mid90s” as well as “Spring Breakers” Designing for a program that’s longer in style– as well as consequently needs even more weeks to prep as well as fire than a function movie– enabled Bivens to actually create as well as advance each actors participant’s closet to assist develop their particular personality arcs.

She additionally reached work together much more with the stars, many thanks to several, consistently arranged installations, using their input as well as concepts in the direction of specific outfits as well as occasionally utilizing their very own individual garments on collection. “With a movie, occasionally you just obtain one suitable with a star as well as one personality can simply have one seek the whole motion picture,” statesBivens “There’s all this weight behind this seek the movie, as well as this was rather the contrary. We had the ability to check out as well as maintain trying out, as well as maintain attempting brand-new points.”.

Below, Bivens breaks down a few of the personalities’ outfits as well as motivations in “Euphoria”.

Rue Bennett (Zendaya)

Hunter Schafer and Zendaya in "Euphoria." Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Hunter Schafer as well as Zendaya in “Euphoria” Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

“In reality, I significantly outfit as well as resemble Rue,” stated Zendaya of her starring personality’s style throughout a panel conversation at ATXTelevision Festival In reality, Rue’s best Converse tennis shoes throughout the program come from the starlet herself. Originally, Bivens wished to network Zendaya’s much more designer-heavy style, which constantly captures our interest throughout red-carpet as well as public looks, yet she remembers: “it simply really did not function. We rapidly relied on vintage.” Some significant appearances up until now consist of a large candy striped cardigan, a tie-dye Tees as well as lots of published dress shirts. While some items that Rue uses are brand-new, the costume group saw to it to over-dye or personalize them to far better straighten them with the personality’s style.

” I actually simply saw her as somebody that had not been always interested in unimportant clothing. She certainly has an excellent equilibrium of manly as well as womanly,” statesBivens “We actually assembled her closet with each other from a great deal of various locations.” In enhancement to a few of Rue’s hero items, like her Chucks as well as maroon hoodie (the provenance of which we’ll figure out later on in the program), the remainder of her closet is a mix in between workwear from Dickie’s as well as streetwear (Gosha Rubchinskiy, Sci-Fi Fantasy). With Zendaya’s elevation– 5′ 10″– more youthful children’ designs showed up a little much shorter on her in a manner in which functioned. (See her Hawaiian print tee shirts as well as chopped trousers.) “In a later episode she uses a coat that’s in fact a little kid’s coat,” exposesBivens

Jules Vaughn (Hunter Schafer)

Hunter Schafer in "Euphoria." Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Hunter Schafer in “Euphoria” Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

The looks put on by Hunter Schafer’s Jules– a trans woman that’s brand-new to her senior high school as well as the very best friend/love passion to Rue– were absolutely a collective initiative in between the starlet as well asBivens At the exact same ATX Television Festival panel conversation, Schafer pointed out sending out web pages of state of mind boards (her individual cherished pastime) to the costume designer for ideas. “Sam had actually created her personalities to be influenced by anime,” statesBivens “I constantly saw her in sweet shades, to be like eye sweet on cam.”.

Indeed, Jules definitely sticks out amongst her peers in a pastel-colored babydoll top or floral-embellished turtleneck, pleated skirts, systems tennis shoes as well as lively knapsacks. (Multiple items detected throughout the program were from Eckhaus Latta.) Her make-up looks worked with flawlessly with her clothing, also, for which Bivens credit histories make-up division headDoniella Davy (“Every time Jules is putting on a brand-new clothing, she has brand-new make-up,” Davy described in a current Instagram article. “If there are 15 fast clips of Jules, there are 15 various make-up looks.”).

Hunter Schafer in "Euphoria." Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Hunter Schafer in “Euphoria” Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

But as the personality’s arc creates with the program, her closet modifications together with it: “As we were getting the manuscripts as well as finding out more concerning that Jules is as well as that she was ending up being, we rapidly started to recognize that, although she was searching for authorization from guys in the start, she rapidly develops right into this even more independent-thinking individual as well as is encouraged,” describesBivens “So she begins clothing much less in a manner in which attempts to obtain interest from guys. You’ll see that throughout the development on the program where she’s not as cutesy.”.

Nate Jacobs (Jacob Elordi)

Jacob Elordi in "Euphoria." Photo: Eddy Chen/HBO

Jacob Elordi in “Euphoria” Photo: Eddy Chen/ HBO

Nate, played by Jacob Elordi, aesthetically represents the jock archetype, that made costume developing rather the piece of cake forBivens (However, we quickly discover that Nate, on the within, is a great deal much more difficult as well as twisted than satisfies the eye.) “We could not actually believe way too much outside package with him due to the fact that he is meant to be this all-American number. In our social awareness, most of us recognize that this man is,” she states. “It was much more around simply making him look actually good-looking, actually comfy.” That required classic, fundamental items– Champion Ts, flannel tee shirts, jeans– as well as not-at-all-flashy tennis shoes, like a set of whiteReebok Classics

Maddy Perez (Alexa Demie) 

Barbie Ferreira and Alexa Demie in "Euphoria." Photo: Courtesy of HBO

Barbie Ferreira as well as Alexa Demie in “Euphoria” Photo: Courtesy of HBO

If you observed that Alexa Demie’s personality Maddy (Nate’s on-and-off-again partner) has a solid propensity for matching collections, you’re right. The style option was made a decision from the very start of shooting the program, states Bivens, that developed the two-piece search for the pilot and afterwards began sourcing as lots of collections as she as well as her group can discover for the rest of the period. While our faves of Maddy’s are the salmon-and-purple Chanel- esque clothing as well as purple as well as daisy-embroidered bustier as well as pants from Miaou, her most significant getup is the one she selects to use at the regional circus (much to Nate’s discouragement): a bra top as well as trousers with cut-outs at the hip, reproduced from the influencer-favorite tag I.AmGia “I desired it in purple as well as they could not make it for me,” statesBivens “So I obtained their consent to replicate it, as well as I made it in purple. That clothing is horrendous.”.

Alexa Demie in "Euphoria." Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Alexa Demie in “Euphoria” Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Maddy’s trademark style is something that Levinson hopes will certainly take place in reality, also. “He stated that by the time individuals had actually seen the very first period, he desired women to be able to see somebody putting on an attire on the road as well as claim, ‘Oh, that’s so Maddy,'” statesBivens “I actually simply attempt to maintain her appearance solid. We have something she uses to the winter season official that I believe is mosting likely to thrill as well as amaze a great deal of individuals.”.

Kat Hernandez (Barbie Ferreira)

Barbie Ferreira in "Euphoria." Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Barbie Ferreira in “Euphoria” Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Within the very first 4 episodes of “Euphoria,” Kat, played by Barbie Ferreira, undergoes one of the most significant closet improvement in the program. “Our beginning factor with her was bookish. We were really influenced by Thora Birch in ‘Ghost World,'” states Bivens of the virgin-turned-camgirl that’s Tumblr renowned for her “Larry Stylinson” follower fic. In the start of the period, we see Kat in lots of vintage-inspired items, largely trendy spectacles, nabbed tops as well as high-waisted bases. But as soon as she ends up being much more comfy in her very own skin while additionally discovering her sexuality, Kat goes full-on punk. Think plaid skirts, fishnets, band Tee shirts, bodices as well as split collars– complemented with a strong red lip, hefty eye make-up as well as tousled hair.

Barbie Ferreira in "Euphoria." Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Barbie Ferreira in “Euphoria” Photo: Eddy Chen/Courtesy of HBO

Kat’s camgirl looks, on the various other hand, were primarily a collective initiative in between Ferreira as well as the costume designer, as well as consist of a black shoelace bralette as well as container leading covered in a huge red heart.

“We robbed the costume homes in Los Angeles,” statesBivens “I do not recognize what’s mosting likely to take place for period 2 due to the fact that we made use of every one of the vintage we were drawing.”.

Additional reporting fromFawnia Soo Hoo

Homepage picture: Zendaya as well as Hunter Schafer in “Euphoria” Photo: Courtesy of HBO.

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